Every season I mention that Mr. Armani has always has a penchant for odd skirts and pants throughout his years and this season he surely proved it with a major statement for jodhpurs and almost pedal pusher length pants…. Neither of which I find horribly flattering or appealing ,so it is safe to say the action was above the waist in most of the collection.
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There were some softly draped pieces and jackets mostly of the spencer cropped variety with a “graphic tape” contrast trim; the jackets while slim were not tight and certainly not relaxed. He used a profuse amount of velvet even down to the shoes and the evening pieces were far tamer than usual. The entire collection was the polar opposite of Armani Privé which was a scorching departure from his norm.
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Wider and higher waists were in abundance … again not the most flattering but there were delicate embroideries , blouses as sheer as soufflé and one spectacular take on the puffer jacket done in an a line or trapeze silhouette that I can safely say had a Japanese influence and will sell as if it is $9.99.
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While far from my favorite collection of his, Amani is a man who knows his client and while it may not sell as much as past fall collections, like Karl... it doesn’t really matter… the faithful flock will buy. So his trespasses are forgiven because even at this less than stellar showing he is head and shoulders above the rest.
GA c’est la classe. But isn’t a bit old ,odd and désuet (faded) ? If you look the collection it’s surely sleek and chic but totally out of time, the pro it’s wearable and perfectly tailored the con it’s not flattering (those weird jodhpurs?) as you stressed it and the textiles look from where we stand very flat and not so creative as he used to be in the 70/80’ it really looks 70/80ies but not vintage alas just passéiste somewhere. RM.F.
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