Paul Andrew in his first official show as creative director for the house does indeed show us he has a plan for this heritage brand. It is not a revolution but a new beginning after the long tenure if Massimiliano Giornetti. The latter had a very sleek slick approach to the brand with heavy concentration on fabrics and very urbane looks. Paul Andrew on the other hand has simplified the collection, made more use of leather and injected a certain youthful aura and maybe you can call it modernity.
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The collection was heavy into leather of the most supple variety, including a leather puffer, anoraks, ponchos, jumpsuits and also using it as embellishment on coats and pants. The presentation was clean, to the point and far more in touch with the marketability aspect of the clothes and not how many more bells and whistles can be added which in turn offers a much broader appeal.
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Of special interest were the blanket skirt and coat which I found especially appealing as well as the opening set of greys. While I hate that longer length, I did love the pin stripes and sort of wished that grouping had been expanded … this was a sort of tease. With collections in this souk of a Fall season, it’s reassuring to see clothes designed for actual people not people who wish to look like they are off to a costume party or freak show.
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I was also taken with the leather fronted blouse and a coat dress with leather bib front. The silhouettes ranged from sleek to relaxed to slightly …I emphasize… slightly oversized which offers a consumer a choice not to mention offers the brand an opportunity to gain larger market share.
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This will be a collection to watch,Andrew makes full use of the logo in the most discreet way as well handbags and of course silk prints, I’m hoping to see this evolve more and more with possibly a more singular point of view.
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