With what might have been the most anticipated show of NYFW, it is a pleasure to be able to put in writing that it was a glorious start for Peter Copping. In fact one might even go so far as to say … bravo!
There is no question that this man was put in the most unenviable position that any designer might be placed in during his career. Yes, he was handpicked by Mr. de la Renta but he spent not a minute of time working with him as Mr. de la Renta’s death put the kibosh on that plan. So this was Mr. Copping relying on the design team and his gut to lead him in the proper direction. To say he reached his destination with barely a bump in the road would be a gross understatement.
The collection demonstrated a restraint and respect for what was built during Oscar’s life and career and took tiny baby steps ahead to the future. The clothes oozed chic and more than satisfied what was expected in a way that so many designers would have quickly eschewed. Copping will no doubt make his mark in time but for now he is holding to the vocabulary of the house and the brand and massaging the DNA. KUDOS!
From the embroideries to the shapes to the shoes to the jewelry, it was all about the legacy and codes of the brand. If one had to make a minor observation, it would be that the lengths on the gowns and strapless dresses seem to be a problem but that will easily be remedied in the future. As for any other missteps they are so minor when the “big picture’ is taken into account.
What can be said is that Peter Copping passed the biggest hurdle and that was to be liked and respected, both of which IMHO he did with flying colors. What happens next … well we shall see soon enough.