Monday, June 29, 2015

Thom Browne Spring 2016



Here’s the thing... he will never really make or design “normal” clothes but there are times he comes very close but alas this was not one of those times. Today was Klaus Nomi meets “My Geisha.” Yeah, I got it ... traditional Japanese landscape paintings, iconography  and embroideries covering  the surfaces of men’s suitings complete with rice powder white faces, Klaus lips and traditional geta and their unique socks.



Whether or not I ever like his collections is irrelevant as he can always be admired for his vivid imagination, his almost surreal quality and his precise razor sharp tailoring. For some odd reason, this collection did not look as hard edged or as impeccable as almost all of the others presentations that have come before it. Today the jackets were pulling and rippling which is disturbing. The question that comes to mind is simply ... did this look better on paper than in real life? The Thom Browne eccentricities were in full attendance from , what I’m guessing were, 3 inch cuffs topping his signature high water pants and his bracelet length sleeves but the jacket lengths have increased and are unusually elongated given his penchant for almost cropped  if not shrunken silhouettes. Then there were loads of vests and lots of flap pockets.



Honestly, this highly Johnny one note collection seemed odder than usual and even more eccentric than usual. This might be overstating the obvious but something seemed very off. To say the least, this was surely not a favorite of mine and one of the least groundbreaking on his resume.