LA LOHAN ------THE DESIGNER WHO KEEPS ON GIVING

It, of course, is comical at best that she thinks she can design and sell and line of her own design, but mightn't the folks at Ungaro find this to be a conflict of "interest" so to speak ................it is difficult to take the whole thing seriously were it not that many TALENTED people from the world of design are out of work ..................................

LAST OF 2009

http://www.oligoville.com/2009/12/28/fashion-by-the-rules-new-years-eve/

PEARLS !!!!

http://www.oligoville.com/2009/12/21/fashion-by-the-rules-pearls/

LA LOHAN UPDATE

In a move that will hardly shock anyone in the fashion business...........Mounir Moufarrige, the man who hired the "celebutard". WORTHLESS and talentless Ms. Lohan has stepped down from his CEO position at Ungaro .......................you think it might have been the wrong choice to bring her on .....................in any capacity ..............other than a poster child for "Life gone wrong"

GLAMOUR

http://www.oligoville.com/2009/12/14/fashion-by-the-rules-glamour/

FASHION BY THE RULES: HAUTE APRONS

http://www.oligoville.com/2009/12/07/fashion-by-the-rules-dressing-for-the-occasion/

TO GREEN OR NOT

http://www.oligoville.com/2009/11/30/fashion-by-the-rules-2-green-or-not-2-be/

FASHION BY THE RULES...IT'S ABOUT TIME

http://www.oligoville.com/2009/11/23/fashion-by-the-rules-its-about-time/

LINDSAY ....OH NO !!!

QUEL SHOCK!!!!! THERE SEEMS TO BE A BIT OF A "FRISSON" ABOUT THE FUTURE OF OUR FAVORITE WASHED UP STARLET AND HER FUTURE WITH THE HOUSE OF UNGARO .....................GEE DO YOU THINK IT MIGHT HAVE BEEN A MISTAKE DISPROVING ANY PUBLICITY IS GOOD PUBLICITY

FASHION BY THE RULES....THE BOW

FASHION BY THE RULES
THE BOW

It is a strange thing, when you think about it, that one of the first things we learn to manually is to tie a bow!!!!!! This little rite of passage from infant to toddler stays with us all of our lives and has been integrated into the history of fashion starting in the 15TH century and even earlier.

I refer to, of course, the more decorative side of this manual labor………………..the bow has been glorified from apparel to all classifications of accessories. Once upon a time the bow had a prissy connotation but has morphed from that to fashion classic……………to an almost a staple element of the French couture as well as ready to wear.

During my varied career in Fashion, I have always, at some point, fallen back on the idea of the bow as a basis for inspiration when buying or selling or merchandising. The bow is a constant for women of all ages and varied ideas of what makes it fashionable. I think that somewhere in the psychology of fashion, the bow remains something that so many women can relate to on some level as well as being a symbol of feminity

Whether it is Dior or Valentino, Lacroix or Rose Bertin (Marie Antoinette’s dressmaker), there remains the enduring use of THE BOW!!! From pussycat bows to utilitarian bows, from handbags to shoes to dresses there are bows everywhere you look and so I took the liberty of finding that timeless element as it is used in the 21st Century of fashion as we know it.

Many thanks to White House, Betsy Johnson, Chloe, Marc Jacobs, Valentino, Dior, Prabal Gurung, Lacroix, Moschino, Viktor&Rolf, Alexis Mabille, Ralph Lauren, Endless.com., Chanel and Netaporter.com., and Shopstyle.com.

FASHION BY THE RULES THE LITTLE BLACK DRESS

FASHION BY THE RULES
THE LITTLE BLACK DRESS

During the past few weeks, I have outlined some of the perfect accessories and items that fill out your Fall wardrobe. The one thing that I have not specifically pointed out is the necessity of the “LBD” or Little Black Dress.

Whether the dress is for work, after five or black tie , you just cannot be without at least one and hopefully more. There is no more versatile item in your wardrobe and the best part is that if chosen wisely…………..you own it for life, so to speak.

While I was researching another topic, I started to see just how ubiquitous the little black dress is ………….sleeveless, long sleeved, one shoulder, strapless, short, long, wool, crepe and on it goes…………the variety is endless in style, fabrication and price. The online offerings are almost endless especially if you visit http://www.shopstyle.com/ where items are catalogued by style or designer or classification. They offer up every price imaginable from scads of resources like Saks or EDressme and from Ralph Lauren to Alexander McQueen .

So, after having been through various sites I decided to show off what I found……………….and the best is that they are all under $300. I even threw in the added bonus of a Norma Kamali jersey dress from Wal Mart at $24.99---which happens to be amazing. The Kamali was pointed out to me by a blog named The Recessionista which can also be found on Facebook.

Thanks to Wal Mart,Recessionista, Shopestyle, White House, Banana Republic, Acne Jeans, Bloomingdales, Piper Lime, Rugby and Ralph Lauren for some of the best of……………………….

As always I encourage you to explore the possibilities on line and off and to use the Fashion By the Rules as the guide for being fabulous……………….Don’t forget me at http://jeffybruce.blogspot.com/

Time to Accessorize

Time to Accessorize

THE UNSPOKEN RULES

http://www.oligoville.com/2009/10/26/fashion-by-the-rules-unspoken-rules/

SPOTTED!!!!!

http://www.oligoville.com/2009/10/19/fashion-by-the-rules-the-non-classic-classic/

PARIS SPRING 2010 LOUIS VUITTON- HERMES

LOUIS VUITTON-try as I might to understand and every time I think I get it I realize that I will never understand the hoopla involved in a collection that is not offered to retailers and is only sold in their own stores ..........................no matter how much print is devoted to it ......the clothes are unwearable--wildly expensive and frankly ---------------not pretty on anyone of any age --thank god they make their money on handbags -------------the only thing I cannot shake from my head is that Marc Jacobs does this purposely as to poke fun at the entire fashion business

HERMES-Why is it that Gaultier can deliver this wildly tasteful-effortless- timeless-understated and flawless collection and the above mentioned is such a mess..................it is just a pleasure to watch and a delight to see
http://www.style.com/fashionshows/review/S2010RTW-HERMES

PARIS SPRING 2010 CHANEL-MCQUEEN-VALENTINO

CHANEL--VIVA KARL! VIVA COCO! VIVA PARIS!-THIS IS A WATERSHED COLLECTION THAT COULD ONLY HAVE BEEN DELIVERED AT CHANEL AND ONLY DELIVERED BY KAISER KARL.....IT IS GOOD TO BE KING !!!!----THERE IS LITTLE FAULT TO BE FOUND WITH THE "FARM GIRL" COLLECTION .............THIS IS THE PERFECT EXAMPLE OF HOW A DESIGNER USED THE DNA - THE LEGACY OF THE BRAND AND TURNED IT INTO A POWERHOUSE.............FROM THE CLOGS TO THE HANDBAGS TO THE SHOES TO THE SUITS TO THE LACE TO THE CHAIN TATTOOS ON THE WRISTS AND LEGS ........IT IS A TRIUMPH TO DELIVER CLOTHES THAT WILL BE COMMERCIALLY ACCEPTED AS WELL AS EDITORIALLY ACCEPTED ON THIS LEVEL . ...CASH REGISTERS WILL RING AND CLIENTS WILL BE HAPPY AND THIS WILL DRAW OUT THE SHY SHOPPER WHO HAS BEEN HIDING FOR THE PAST YEAR
http://www.style.com/fashionshows/complete/slideshow/S2010RTW-CHANEL/


VALENTINO-The duo who inherited the monumental job of proceeding the "chic" of fashion have succeeded in bringing their own influence to the brand without forgoing much of its inherent DNA...................I wish they had used some color like red!!! to further their new vision but still the clothes were as refined-light- tasteful - and younger......gone were the day clothes and the suits that made ladies swoon but I think they will return for fall and hopefully with the couture . It will be interesting to follow the collection and see if this new vision holds up
http://www.style.com/fashionshows/complete/slideshow/S2010RTW-VALENTIN/

ALEXANDER McQUEEN --rarely am I given to lauding praise on any designer but I am compelled this season to do it for ALEXANDER McQUEEN..........and not because it is such a commercial relevant or accessible collection but because the art involved , the masterful tailoring., the unbelievable prints and embellishments , the unfathomable dressmaking skills but for the overall presentation of such fantasy on a grand scale -------------gravity defying shoes(which were hideously fabulous) and gravity defying hair !! This was a visual feast , not to mention a paean to the art of fashion that should be used to teach future designers in years to come .............I believe that Mr McQUEEN will become what Karl is today
http://www.style.com/fashionshows/complete/slideshow/S2010RTW-AMCQUEEN/

PARIS SPRING 2010 YSL-STELLA-CELINE-GIAMBATTISTA VALLI

YSL-Once again the the designer delved backwards to go forward...but alas Mr Pilati overthinks it and offers up a not so fab Spring collection ....yes there were wonderful moments but then again there were the leiderhosen and the cotton and leather combo ..........I know this collection is capable of greatness even if it is thought out too much
http://www.style.com/fashionshows/complete/slideshow/S2010RTW-YSLRG/

CELINE-BRAVO !!!! this will be the comeback collection of the season ....Ms Philo arrives with a bit more seasoning and a lot of common sense and delivered a fabulous collection that will no doubt restore it to the days when Michael Kors designed..........The clothes are crisp-sharp - exacting-pared down -raffine--there is a lot to like here for customers as well as editors
http://www.style.com/fashionshows/complete/slideshow/S2010RTW-CELINE/

GIAMBATTISTA VALLI- He has found his story and he is sticking to it ...and rightfully so . The collection is young, sexy, frothy , ruffled, fringed , feathered and more . It is never boring and not for the shy girls who never go out
http://www.style.com/fashionshows/complete/slideshow/S2010RTW-VALLI/

STELLA MC CARTNEY -she has got her eye on making cash registers ring...and they will. The collection of real clothes for real people is Spring perfect in color - pattern-silhouette---it is not boring on any level and even offers real shoes !!! This is a collection that proves salable is not boring
http://www.style.com/fashionshows/complete/slideshow/S2010RTW-SMCCARTN/

PARIS SPRING 2010--LAGERFELD-ANDREW GN-AKRIS-GIVENCHY - ungaro

AKRIS-What was once an old lady collection (less than 20 years ago) to the quintessence of sharp, clean , stunning simplicity is the road that has been travelled here.......the colors are beautifully soft but rich ..the clothes are wearable , slick and effortless almost ethereal
http://www.style.com/fashionshows/complete/slideshow/S2010RTW-AKRIS/

ANDREW GN-Soigne, chic, classy wardrobing for the woman of refined tastes..Mr. Gn did not cede one inch from his original plan of masterfully crafted embellished designs--he may have dialed it down a notch but nothing has been lost ....if anything, his dressmaking skills are enhanced
http://www.style.com/fashionshows/complete/slideshow/S2010RTW-AGN/

KARL LAGERFELD-It seems pointless to laud more praise on him but the show was such a truly masterful display of his tailoring and dressmaking talents, one cannot ignore this.........I chose to focus here on the "waist up" elements as his theme being the rounded hip short bears no resemblance to reality ......the impeccable tailoring and construction of those "tops" render them perfect for almost anyone who can afford them no matter what the age
http://www.style.com/fashionshows/complete/slideshow/S2010RTW-KLAGERFELD/

GIVENCHY-As of this season I am now a believer...........Mr. Tisci presented a graphic well conceived collection of Givenchy...he has single handedly transformed the DNA of this famed brand from the demure lady to the "hot chick" of the 21 st century ...........and this is no easy task . The collection is undoubtedly young -unquestionably sexy and shows off the many talents of its designer
http://www.style.com/fashionshows/complete/slideshow/S2010RTW-GIVENCHY/

UNGARO -for its premier collection , with new designer and new creative advisor, the long famed house should hide its head in shame for allowing such a tasteless and pedestrian display..........I mean really ..........pasties!!!! Short skirts and obvious odes to sexiness don't play here when the house was once known for the seductive qualities that the clothes had....Some sage pointed out that the only reason the designer got the job is that she was willing to play second fiddle to the drug addled --washed up at 23 starlet who was named "creative advisor" which is an insult to anyone in this business...as for the owner who didn't want to spend on a named designer and chose this route..I say ---YOU GET WHAT YOU PAY FOR
http://www.style.com/fashionshows/complete/slideshow/S2010RTW-UNGARO/

IMAGE --LILO THE SLUT

HERE WE HAVE THE LATEST IMAGE MAKER FOR THE HOUSE OF UNGARO --THE WASHED UP SLUTTY LOOKING LINDSAY LOHAN AT HER FINEST ...DON'T YOU THINK SHE IS JUST A PARAGON OF GOOD TASTE??? A GUIDING LIGHT FOR THE YOUTH OF THE WORLD?? AND ESPECIALLY SHE IS THE CURE FOR WJAT AILS THIS NOW DISGRACED FASHION HOUSE........SHE IS THE QUINTESSENCE OF WHAT I THINK A JET SET CRACK WHORE LOOKS LIKE ------n'est ce pas??

PARIS SPRING 2010 JPG-LOEWE-VIKTOR&ROLF-JUNYE WATANABE

JEAN PAUL GAULTIER-Like so many of his colleagues, he looked back to look ahead...the familiar iconography of Gaultier was apparent...denim,lingerie, conical bras, trench coats-overalls and transparency ...ever the provocateur , ever the master tailor ...nevertheless this was not Gaultier with "his game on "
http://www.style.com/fashionshows/complete/slideshow/S2010RTW-JPGAULTI/

VIKTOR & ROLF-At a time when most have retired to their tried and true ----the boys have forged new territory as well as providing one of the highlights of the week in Paris.....it was drama-----it was theater----it was great !!!! as for wearable , well some of it but what a visual feast ................known for their themes this was a tour de force in theme
http://www.style.com/fashionshows/complete/slideshow/S2010RTW-VIKROLF/

LOEWE-Everybody loves a come back and LOEWE is now poised to proceed to its former glory .......................unlike so many houses who have lost their luster, LOEWE has decided to comeback and be known for what they have always been known for ----------leather of all kind in all classifications. Huge kudos to Stuart Vevers for reigniting the brand with its original DNA and bringing the house into the 21 st century ................hopefully the coming collections will remain as chic and timely
http://www.style.com/fashionshows/complete/slideshow/S2010RTW-LOEWE/

JUNYA WATANABE--I have never been a fan of nor have I ever been able to explain this collection BUT alas wonders never cease and I can say ......yes I get it!!!!! the collection is an exercise in razor sharp tailoring and any and everything you ever wanted in a white shirt.....the jackets and "blouses" were flawless in execution ...........while I am not sure how, as a retailer, I would buy this ....I know I would certainly be trying hard to figure out how it would be in my store
http://www.style.com/fashionshows/complete/slideshow/S2010RTW-JNWATNBE/

PARIS SPRING 2010 DIOR LANVIN

DIOR-masterfully rendered trenchcoat looks, femme fatale dresses, lace. corsetry , bows, transparency and 40s film sirens-----sounds like a rehash of the Galliano Dior signatures but I must say it is by no means boring .............the looks appear as though this was their first time being presented and that is truly a feat
http://www.style.com/fashionshows/complete/S2010RTW-CDIOR

LANVIN ..the show opened with what one could say are typically sexy ALBERT ELBAZ/LANVIN dresses then suddenly becomes a collection which is at once cohesive, so stunning , so awe inspiring in its theme all with fabulous jewelry ---this is the gem of a show that that one hopes for after a long month of not so pretty clothes....He has managed to take the collection , which is already a gem and make it a crowned jewel
http://www.style.com/fashionshows/complete/slideshow/S2010RTW-LANVIN/

PARIS SPRING 2010 PUGH-ROCHAS-BALENCIAGA-AZZARO- BALMAIN

GARETH PUGH-Heavy on the zippers-close to the body with a much less theatrical presentation than is his norm but still plenty of drama to go around...this is an evolving collection with divine technique which I do believe will eventually bring him to the forefront of fashion houses
http://www.style.com/fashionshows/complete/slideshow/S2010RTW-PUGH/

ROCHAS-The collection appears to be somewhat pretty even if I cannot find much to say about it ---this is a long fabled house that is still searching for its 21 st century identity...what I can say is that the use of the flowers at the waist is a key accessory/look
http://www.style.com/fashionshows/complete/slideshow/S2010RTW-ROCHAS/

BALENCIAGA-Nicolas Ghesquiere as raised the bar to impossible heights with this spring collection. He is at the top of his game and re enforced his presence as a world class designer. While i am not a huge fan of the clothes, I am however, a huge fan of the craft and what he does every season. He has developed a cult following for his designs while remaining true to himself. There are not many who can even come close to making these claims
http://www.style.com/fashionshows/complete/slideshow/S2010RTW-BALENCIA/

AZZARO-Remaining true to her brand, Ms. Seward delivered a beautiful collection of immaculately rendered clothes for ladies of all ages. Clean shapes with enough detail and embellishment but never over the top
http://www.style.com/fashionshows/complete/slideshow/S2010RTW-AZZARO/

BALMAIN--Another fabled house in search of a 21st century identity ....This is Rock n Roll, 70s Disco, 80s Sexy and way way over the top in every possible way. I would just love to know the demographic for the is collection as I would have to say that if you are over 30 and more than a size 8 then you are not shopping here.
http://www.style.com/fashionshows/complete/slideshow/S2010RTW-BALMAIN/

MILAN SPRING 2010 DOLCE-FENDI-AQUILANO RIMONDI etc;

DOLCE&GABBANA-When in doubt, do what you do best and that was the mantra for the boys of D & G.......sexy-fringed - lacy - and way over the top but these guys have built DNA based on it. The recipe works with a dash of denim, dollops of accessories and you get the visual feast which is DOLCE & GABBANA
http://www.style.com/fashionshows/complete/slideshow/S2010RTW-DGABBANA/

AQUILANO REMONDI...With such lofty inspirations one would have hoped that the collection lived up to the likes of Capucci,Odicini and Lancetti..........those are the names that made me slack jawed as a young spectator of fashion.. These guys just produce collections on some far flung interpretation of some esoteric inspiration ...............somethings are better talked about than executed

FENDI-While I am not generally a fan of this collection I can honestly say that come Spring 2010 there will be lots to buy with your Fendi bags ......after all the Karl tricks fall away ----this is a beautiful collection
http://www.style.com/fashionshows/complete/slideshow/S2010RTW-FENDI/

ON A DIFFERENT NOTE , AFTER HAVING LOOKED AT D SQUARED I CAN HONESTLY ASK "HOW LONG BEFORE THE TWINS WIND UP KICKED TO THE CURB " THE COLLECTION , IF YOU CAN CALL IT THAT , IS AN AFFRONT TO RETAILERS, ESPECIALLY AT THOSE PRICES ..................IF THEY WANT TO DESIGN CLOTHES LIKE THAT THEY SHOULD TRY THEIR HAND AT URBAN OUTFITTERS

MILAN SPRING BOTTEGA-PUCCI GUCCI - SCOGNAMIGLIO

BOTTEGA VENETA--I find that the more you need to explain clothes the more difficult collection and so hold true for this one ....there is so much intellectualizing about that the clothes that the talk doesn't live up to the collection ....The original brand had its DNA in leather goods/accessories and that segment surely does not disappoint...it's only the clothes !!
http://www.style.com/fashionshows/complete/slideshow/S2010RTW-BVENETA/

PUCCI--Here is another case of what the original brand had which was its history of prints and for the easy shapes that these prints were incorporated into ..........now we have a collection which barely comes close to the original DNA except in the thinnest of comparisons----------these clothes are over the top sexy ..hardly what Would call sophisticated or chic in any way ................My big question is then why invest in the name or is it only a means to an end of creating a new collection with an old name ????

GUCCI--It is difficult for me to say that Tom Ford's collections looked like ANNE KLEIN in comparison to the current Gucci collections....even though I found this collection to be barely wearable, it has more merit than I have seen in ages...Thank god they rely on shoes and handbags to make money

FRANCESCO SCOGNAMIGLIO--Under all the drama and theatrics lies the heart and soul of a master tailor and dressmaker...If you could dial down all the surrounding extras you would see this young man knows how to drape a dress and tailor a suit ....I believe in due time and with proper leadership he will be harnessed into producing spectacular collections for the next generation
http://www.style.com/fashionshows/complete/slideshow/S2010RTW-FSCOG/

MILAN SPRING 2010 FERRE-JIL SANDER- VERSACE---BLUMARINE

FERRE-where oh where have all the fabulous clothes gone >>>>They are certainly not here at Ferre....but if you are looking for awkward shapes, bad shoes, too much ruching/pleating, draping and folding ...then you are at the right place. Gone are the days of razor sharp, precise, slick , edgy, slick chic clothes that once inhabited this brand .............these guys are too busy trying to establish themselves without even a nod to the late Mr. Ferre

JIL SANDER- While I must say I was slightly disappointed after the last few shows, this new collection delivers but not with the usual hard edged beauties of recent seasons......There is plenty of Jil here just not fabulous Jil. The gimmicks used by Raf Simons are incorporated into the collection without taking over the collection for without some fun where's the reason to see a show
http://www.style.com/fashionshows/complete/slideshow/S2010RTW-JLSANDER/

VERSACE-If ever there was a time to revisit the sexy days of Gianni Versace , now was the time and that is exactly what the Signora Donatella has done.....The show was pure Gianni with one twist----"what would Gianni have done for Spring 2010?"--------------And we have our answer within this presentation --short - sexy - tight-prints-color- studs -flash ----------------my only gripe was the shoes ---they really could have been less over the top
http://www.style.com/fashionshows/complete/slideshow/S2010RTW-VERSACE/

BLUMARINE--While I have never been much of a fan of this collection I must say I have been won over with this presentation .........last season was fabulous and this season is a close runner up . It's Young without being teenish --it is colorful - flirty - sexy without being overt --colorful --prints galore and wonderfully accessorized
http://www.style.com/fashionshows/complete/slideshow/S2010RTW-BLUMARNE/

MILAN SPRING 2010

Spring has always been the more troublesome of seasons for most designers and so far it holds true for the first 2 major collections of Milan

GIORGIO ARMANI--he has the blues for sure and in every shade --I found the clothes did not possess their normally polished soigne look...For a man who couldn't design a dress 30 years ago , this collection is dress-centric and light on the refined slick tailored look that Mr. Armani has built his reputation on. hile the collection offered a softer look I found it to be less than pleasing
http://www.style.com/fashionshows/complete/slideshow/S2010RTW-GARMANI/

PRADA--This collection like 90% of the ones I have seen from this famous house ----is just incomprehensible to me ...pigtails???.............one reviewer wrote about "wearable" clothes...I say "What collection did I see?".............save for the chandelier crystal segment of totally unwearble not to mention the incredible weight of them ...it is all lost on me
http://www.style.com/fashionshows/complete/slideshow/S2010RTW-PRADA/

LONDON SPRING 2010

I am going to do this one in a slightly different format as I waded through days of show waiting for something to bowl me over ..............The closest I got to that is ERDUM which I found to be exquisite--intricate--delicate and yet razor sharp .For me this is what clothes look like and this is why LVMH now owns part of it
http://www.style.com/fashionshows/complete/slideshow/S2010RTW-ERDEM/

All the hype around BURBERRY PRORSUM is just that ....hype. No matter how hard I try and how many seasons I look at this collection , I have yet to see what's so great ..This season was no exception as I found the collection to be heavy handed and over worked. I can only think that the reviews it garners are based strictly in proportion to their advertising dollars spent.

AQUASCUTUM---If the underpinnings were less distracting then what would have been see is a fabulous collection of "RAINWEAR"...........with some good editing this is something to watch and possibly regain its stature
http://www.style.com/fashionshows/complete/slideshow/S2010RTW-AQUA/

I would like to give special mention to LUELLA ,PRINGLE, MARY KATRANTZOU, SYKES, SCUTT, JOSH GOOT AND PPQ for showing collections that are certainly worth a second look

LONDON has always been the laboratory of fashion with so many young designers starting out , but I must say that there is a startling amount of shows with not much to "say".......................there were however unbelievable fabulous prints which I haven't seen in many years.............and certainly the term "ENGLISH ECCENTRIC" is well earned this season

READ ME WEEKLY AS WELL

I AM ALSO WEEKLY NOW !!!!
http://www.oligoville.com/2009/09/22/fashion-by-the-rules-922/

RALPH --OSCAR--MARC--ISSAC & DENNIS BASSO

This has been a very interesting week for the fashion flock ---we have seen so much shifting and squirming that is is hard to know what clothes belong to what designer and whether most designers know what their own clothes look like ..................................except of course for the very few
OSCAR de la RENTA
The man has a point of view and he sticks to it and he enhances and embraces it ...this was a stellar collection in a season where most designers needed a GPS system to find their direction ..there was Oscar strutting out the stuff that great collections are made of
http://www.style.com/fashionshows/review/S2010RTW-ODLRENTA

Next up ........RALPH LAUREN -----from Okies to Astors he covered his bases and remained true to himself the man is smart enough and savvy enough to really on what he knows which is very simply "Why fix what's not broken"
While I would say that this was not the most fabulous of collections but I would also add that he has not deserted his ladies nor his DNA
http://www.style.com/fashionshows/review/S2010RTW-RLAUREN

MARC JACOBS....While i am not the usual fan of his I have come to learn that his shows require digestion and dissection and therein lies the beauty ..it is visual overload, fashion excess, and every buyers nightmare but in the end it is one man's particular vision and he allows the buyers to draw their own conclusion.....One cannot deny the femininity , the colors , the tailoring, the folly of it all but without his single mindedness each season the FASHION business would be a dull place to live
http://www.style.com/fashionshows/review/S2010RTW-MJACOBS/

If i can I would like to give kudos to MARCHESA for delivering a truly beautiful collection ...to ISSAC for his sense of humor and for his unerring taste and to DENNIS BASSO for sending out a truly fashion worthy coherent collection of beautiful dresses

NYC SPRING 2010 TUESDAY WEDNESDAY THURSDAY

This is a break from my normal routine and reviewing collections individually..Over these past few days I have felt that the collections are all over the place in look and in no way related to the times we are living through ---at least with rare exception and I will single those out later ..................The build up to Fashion Week has filled pages and pages with "inspiration" and goals for he new collections and now having been through most of the week .....................all those words---all that ink ....all those pages are just a load of CRAP................catch words--ACCESSIBLE (CHEAPER)--RELEVANT (HAVE SOMEPLACE TO WEAR THEM ) These words are not even close to what we have seen ..designers are scrambling to find a market for their clothes----one season it's Contemporary --one season it's bridge --one season it's aiming at a younger customer ---why is it so hard to stick to your guns and do what you do best ..................if anything at all .
Some of the better known designer collections had switched direction so many times that they do not have a customer anymore and DUH-----------why build a clientele for your look and then dismiss it like yesterdays news. The clothes are wildly expensive for what they are are and the purpose they serves so is it not possible to deliver wearable clothes for people who spend ???????????????????????? New York wanted to be first to show and now they are and now we find that we have the emperors new clothes

DVF--DEREK LAM --ERIN FETHERSTON--REEM ACRA

DIANE VON FURSTENBERG
With her own brand she throws a party for a collection that is commercial , creative and yet these are clothes for real people--from secretaries to socialites ...there is something for all --prints a plenty --colors galore all with no pretense
http://www.style.com/fashionshows/review/S2010RTW-DVFURSTE

DEREK LAM--
It's decidedly young or young at heart but with prints a plenty ,lots of color, and a hint of retro

ERIN FETHERSTON
I am not sure why I always seem to find something to like in this collection and so maybe it was the color pallet which was soothing yet cool and maybe it was just that the clothes are very appealing without being over worked but with alot of CHIC!
http://www.style.com/fashionshows/review/S2010RTW-EFETH

REEM ACRA--THEY WERE JEWELED--DRAMATIC --DRAPED--COLORFUL --SOPHISTICATED AND CHIC -----THE MAJOR DRAWBACK HERE WAS THAT THE "GIRLS" LOOKED LIKE RUSSIAN PEASANT STOCK WHO FOUND THEMSELVES ON THE RUNWAY FOR THE FIRST TIME WHICH DID NOTHING TO HELP THE CLOTHES
http://www.style.com/fashionshows/review/S2010RTW-RACRA

CHADO -RALPH RUCCI

I guess that every generation and area of design produces its own genius and the fashion business has RALPH RUCCI!!!! I can't find enough words to use to gush over this collection which demonstrates the ART of apparel design...an art which seems lost in the trends of the day and the supposed youth audience.......Chado is distinctly Ralph Rucci crafted with perfection of shape-- line--- fit --detail and coloration.
If you study the masters of the 20th century then Mr. Rucci should not be denied his place with these masters......
My accolades pale by the accolades already deserved by him but please look and examine the fine art of design brought to you via a quintessential designer for the quitessential customer
http://www.style.com/fashionshows/review/S2010RTW-CHADO
PS--imagine that he chose to use a shoe that looks like a summer shote and doesnt distract from the clothes---------WHAT A CONCEPT

JASON WU -YIGAL AZROUEL--ALTAZURRA

JASON WU -What a difference 6 months can make ..JW is all grown up with a less Artsy more grown up but not dowdy collection short on decoration and long on draping and dressmaking--waists--platforms-- defined shoulders--It's a direction which suits him and his customer http://www.style.com/fashionshows/review/S2010RTW-JASONWU

YIGAL AZROUEL--While not usually a fan , I find the ASYMETRICAL aspect of the clothes to be a trend with some designer thus far, and it certainly adds to the simple geometry of these modern sexy clothes....but the Back Suede Booties distract as does the high waisted pant
http://www.style.com/fashionshows/review/S2010RTW-YAZROUEL

ALTAZURRA--These 21 st century Hippie clothes cannot hide the designers past with Givenchy but I fine these to be more appealing and less harsh than the French version ..Hippie Chic without the toughness of Givenchy --wonderful softly draped suedes, feminine whites, and flattering blush pink ....all for the younger "couture" customer or at least for the young at heart
http://www.style.com/fashionshows/review/S2010RTW-ALTZRRA

SPRING NEW YORK 2010

There's not much to report at the very start of what will turn out to be Fashion Month not just Fashion Week ......But .............even with the little that I have seen....I can tell you that bows, FEATHERS and platforms--color as well as black and white are here for the new season ................One newish designer of note is PRABAL GURUNG.............there is a master dressmaker there--note the BOWS and the grace of the clothes ..he reminds me of when Marc Bohan was at Dior ..............have a look for your selfhttp://www.style.com/fashionshows/complete/slideshow/S2010RTW-PGURUNG/

LA LOHAN and UNGARO

It is not often that I feel the need to vent but this morning finds me in a quandry ?????? What the fuck does Lindsay Lohan know about clothes and Ungaro ????? Either Mr. Moufarrige is a genius or he is a moron beyond anyone's wildest dreams .......................I just have to question what exactly is the positive side of attaching a personality such as hers to a house that is steeped in French fashion ........I was lucky enough , during my career to have bought Ungaro as a collection during the 80's when the house was peaking and I cannot justify in my head what this addled, confused ,talentless starlet could possibly know of the heritage of Ungaro ---someone please enlighten me !!!

UPDATE--AS IT APPEARED IN THE NY POST ON SEPTEMBER 11---Lindsay Lohan took the cake, however, at the Ungaro showroom on Madison Avenue when she darted out after two minutes and refused to have her picture taken with the company's CEO, Mounir Moufarrige. She hopped into a car and rode off, leaving her mother, Dina Lohan, stranded.

PAGE 29

http://www.mygazines.com/issue/2526/0

PARIS FALL COUTURE 2009

I am aware that COUTURE is not for us mere mortals but for those of rarefied finances and hopefully beyond the pales taste and aesthetics.........................I was extremely taken by The New York Times review by Cathy Horyn "Haute couture is really about taste and aesthetic vision. .............HAUTE couture isn’t as much about having money as it is about having the conviction that taste actually matters. Because if you don’t have money in fashion — and, at the moment, many designers do not — it helps to have something else to offer." And offer they do !!!!!
this is unto itself when it comes to the unparalleled workmanship---the intricacies of design and nuance ................................one truly cannot equate ready to wear with COUTURE....................they are distinctly apart..............................Nevertheless, I was extremely taken by LACROIX--DIOR--GAULTIER--and CHANEL .....it makes one look in awe of the artistry that is involved with the creation of such wondrous creations.................................http://www.style.com/fashionshows/review/F2009CTR-JPGAULTI

PAGE 36

http://www.mygazines.com/issue/1356/35

JUNE 24 MILAN ----MEN'S

For a change of pace , I thought I would delve into the world of MEN"S----Having been through all the photos of the collections show thus far----there are a few observation that I have about the state of affairs inthe Men's business*****************************
1- When did the deomographic of the Men's designer customer change ????According to most designers the optimum client is 20, maybe 25, and they have a healthy trust fund and of course, they needn't work

2-These clothes are enormously expensive no matter how much the designers can lower the prices and what makes anyone believe that a 40 year old let alone a 50 year old ---can realte to clothes worn on some barely pubescent boywith a 28 inch waist and a 36 inch chest

3-If the business is to survive the current downturn --wouldn't it be prudent to aim the collection at your real customer and not the "ideal" or aspirational customer

4-Kudos to VERSACE for showing the sexy clothes on men and not boys--FERRAGAMO--ZEGNA--ARMANI --McQUEEN ---DOLCE--and ETRO for likewise doing that as well as showing collectiones targeted to their clientel

http://men.style.com/fashion/collections/S2010MEN/runwayshows

JUNE 17 NYC

I would be hard pressed to say that a trip to Bergdorfs --Bendels or Barneys was an event of note ................All the B's are seas of markdowns----maybe oceans ...........my guess is not much of spring left these emporia and not much will leave until the markdowns increase further.............The only store where I saw more people was in Jimmy Choo on sad sad Madison Avenue where the vacancy rate is increasing daily.....between those going out of business and those having financial difficulties who will fill these spaces

ON THE EVE OF FALL DELIVERIES

STATE OF FASHION--------------- With still another quarter filled with more losses I get the picture that maybe now the high end will see that the end is not near for this latest reversal of consumer spending...Neimans is still smarting from their losses and continues to find was to cut back without "telling the customer"----I am afriad that the booby prize for retailers will go to Saks after having spent north of 30 MILLION to redo a floor which is already a drain on their quarterly sales---somehow i believe there will be some sort of "surprise" out of that camp and I don't think they will be applauding --unless you applaud beheading................The cutback syndrome seems to effect both men's and women's apparel -----As i said 2 months ago ---WHERE ARE THE MERCHANTS ???????

HAS THE WORLD GONE MAD????

THIS MORNING I READ THAT THERE IS A POSSIBILITY OF LINDSAY LOHAN SIGNING ON AS A CREATIVE CONSULTANT TO THE HOUSE OF UNGARO ---HOW CAN THIS EVEN BE A RUMOR ??? IF THIS SHOUDL EVER COME TO PASS ---THEN I BELIEVE THAT UNGARO WILL GET WHAT IT DESERVES AND THAT WILL BE ---OUT OF BUSINESS

RESORT 2010 NOT TO BE MISSED

WHAT'S BLACK AND WHITE AND RED ALL OVER ??? AND CAN BE RELATED TO HELMUT BERGER AND LUCHINO VISCONTI ??????
http://www.style.com/fashionshows/review/2010RST-CHANEL

MET PARTY WINNER AND LOSERS

WINNERS
BLAKE LIVELY --ALL GROWN UP
GISELE--IMAN--CLAIRE DAINES
LIZ HURLEY --VICTORIA BECKHAM
DAPHNE GUINESS--LIV TYLER
KATE HUDSON-EVA LONGORIA
ALEK WEK --HEIDI KLUM --ALL JUST BEAUTIFUL
LOSERS
RIHANNA LOOKING STUPID
AGNES DEYN LOOKING 50
HILLARY SWANK LOOKING BAD
ANDRE LEON TALLEY LOOKING LIKE ARETHA
LEIGHTON MEESTER LOOKING LIKE THE COURT JESTER
MOLLY SIMS LOOKING FOOLISH

SPECIAL MENTION
DAVID LAUREN --ONLY YOUR FATHER CAN PULL THAT OFF
TOMMY HILLFIGER--SPECTATORS REMAIN NOT SUITABLE FOR BLACK TIE

MET PARTY

LET'S TAKE APART A FEW RULES THAT TIME SHOULD NEVER ERODE ---WHEN DRESSING FOR BLACK TIE /GALA---A LADY SHOULD NOT WEAR LEATHER SHOES ...THIS IS NOT ACCEPTABLE ATTIRE ..MESN SHOULD TRY TO POLISH THEIR SHOES BEFORE GOING OUT .....HOSE WOULD BE A NICE TOUCH INSTEAD OF BARE LEGS WHEN POSSIBLE ...OPAQUE BLACK HOSE FOR THESE OCCASIONS IS NOT EVER RIGHT ....WHEN HAVING YOUR PHOTO TAKEN ..TRY NOT TO STAND PIGEON TOED FOR ALL TO SEE...IT IS NOT THE PROPER VENUE TO "GET YOUR FREAK ON " UNLESS , OF COURSE YOU ARE A FREAK ...REMEMBER JUST BECAUSE A DESIGNER SAYS YOU LOOK FABULOUS DOESN'T MEAN YOU ACTUALLY DO LOOK FABULOUS...

MET PARTY

ONCE UPON A TIME ---WHEN THIS PARTY WAS THE FIRST MONDAY IN DECEMBER ---THE REAL FUN CAME AFTER THE DINNER WHEN FOR A NOMINAL CONTRIBUTION THERE WAS DRINING AND DANCING IN THE LOBBY OF THE MUSEUM ---IT WAS THERE THAT THE ACTION WAS ---NOT THE DINNER ---THE AFTER DINNER EVENT WAS THE PLACE TO BE IF YOU WERE YOUNG AND HIP ---IT WAS THE HEIGHT OF THE 70S AND EARLY 80'S AND WHAT FUN IT WAS ---THERE WAS NO RED CARPET --THE ONLY PRE REQUISITE FOR THE DINNER WAS A FAT WALLET ---THAT MUCH HASN'T CHANGED ---BUT THE CALIBER OF THE DINNER GUESTS WAS SO MANY RUNGS UP ON THE SOCIAL LADDER THAN TODAY

MET PARTY

CHECK THIS OUT --COMMENTS TO FOLLOW
http://www.style.com/peopleparties/parties/slideshow/redcarpet-050409_Costume_Institute_Gala/?loop=0&iphoto=0&play=false&cnt=160

THE NEW RETAIL

WITH THE NOW DIMINISHED STATE OF BENDELS AND THE SLEW OF SPECIALTY STORES WHO HAVE LOST THEIR BATTLES ----WE HAVE A NEW LANDSCAPE FOR RETAIL .....I HAVE LITTLE DOUBT THAT THE "SPECIALTY STORE" AS WE KNOW IT WILL DISAPPEAR FROM VIEW...I REMEMBER WHEN THERE WERE FINE SPECIALTY STORES IN EVERY MAJOR CITY OF THIS COUNTRY WHICH CATERED TO THE TOP TIER OR CARRAIGE TRADE OF THAT CITY ---SOME WERE ON AIR STRIPS ---SOME ON PARK AVENUE---SOME IN LITTLE POCKETS OF WEALTH THAT WERE HARDLY KNOWN UNLESS YOU SHIPPED THERE OR LIVED THERE ....STORES THAT TREATED MERCHANDISE AND THEIR CLIENTS LIKE GOLD AND NOT A CUSTOMER #...IT IS SAD TO THINK THAT THE COUNTRY WILL BE SOLELY MADE UP OF NEIMANS AND SAKS AND THE LIKE ..SADDER TO REMEMBER WHAT WAS

FASHION SINCE PARIS -

So my mind has been filled with so many questions and observations since the collections have ended in Paris.....So here goes with some random stream which maybe someone might answer.or explain ...When did it suddenly become the right thing to do-- when a CEO leads their company down the road to lo$$---and then is rewarded with a substantially higher compen$ation package for having done so !!!! What have a I missed ......Poor Christian Lacroix is looking for investors..according to the Wall Street Journal..since Saks and Neimans didn't place fall orders---I am supposing that if one cannot ship their merchandise "on wheels" then one is out of the picture ----sad but true I think .
And with the growing 'recession" "pullback of spending " why is it thaat manufacturers and stores are realizing that good old fashioned merchants are whats needed after the math has been done ....merchants seems to be the missing part of the equation since today's buyers and DMM's and GMM's are nothing more than numbers crunchers and negotiators

FASHION IN GENERAL

This season I find it extremely disconcerting that the shows /clothes must be intellectualized beyond any reason in order to validate what was seen on the run way and done so by those who should know better ..................I want to know why or how several of the collections were lauded and praised when simply they are not pretty ...not wearable.........have no particular reason for being other than one day a year which is Halloween ..........I understand that no ones wants to speak ill in times like these but in the same breath how could you insult your peers and give some diatribe on some hideous junk which might be a feat of construction and engineering but has the salability/wearability factor of a thumbtack .........These are hardly the times to be intellectually posturing about clothes ---it is the time we need to think about giving that customer a reason to buy clothes TO WEAR not as collectors items

PARIS REVIEW FALL 2009

The shows are over and the reviews are in but I think that the season was far more fabulous than the retailers gave them credit for ....the translation is that when the collections become too commercial (wearable) the critics are overly critical .......I believe that there were over the top collections and safe collections but certainly not boring or dull -----at a time when the retail environment is so difficult how can any retailer speak of the merits of Comme des Garcons...I find it particularly difficult to believe that this collection will pay the rent but Lanvin was too safe ---HUH???? What is it that doesn't allow me to compute this evaluation ?????........At any rate I am happy to be on the sidelines with my observations ..what with traffic down ..prices up ...oceans of black ....budgets cut ........and high prices ..it is simply not easy to be in the fashion biz these days

HERMES ELIE SAAB JOHN GALLIANO PARIS 2009 FALL

HERMES -What can one say when see the best that money can offer ....it is louche luxe..it is so good ..so chic..it is the true literal definition of investment dressing and the best Browns that side of the Atlantic.......... ELIE SAAB.. With the new addition of what i call "Jewelry Dresses" or "FUR COAT DRESSES" comes a welcomed new point of view to mesh with the new restrained red carpet gowns which are decidedly more low key but nonetheless beautiful..........JOHN GALLIANO ......It's Russian nesting dolls taken to the Nth degree---over the top embellishments --over the top shapes/proportions--this wqas wearbility be damned ..but fabulous

CHANEL 2009 FALL PARIS

WHY is it that the man who calls himself Karl Lagerfeld can deliver a CHANEL collection that is so in keeping with our times and yet he has not held back anything .........this is a collection of soigne ..chic..ageless...timeless clothes----This literally is something for everyone ..well at least those who can afford ...but of any age--it seems odd that here no one will criticize him for being commercial since he is the only one who managed to be commercial yet true to the brand with no sacrifice

ALEXANDER McQUEEN PARIS FALL 2009

ALEXANDER McQUEEN has never been for the feint of heart but this season ..if you strip away the over the top shoes and make up ...you get to see that Mr. McQueen is a master of his art...FASHION!!!! The show was what fashion is made of and will continue to be for those who are unashamed of their talent and unafraid of showmanship.....so ,it would have been an unwise move on his part if he had shown a collection of perfectly wearable nondescript clothes so instead he stayed true to his DNA and delivered laser detailed tailoring and unbelievably constructed dresses which his customer will only be too happy to wear

QUINTESSENTIAL CHANEL

http://www.style.com/fashionshows/complete/slideshow/F2009RTW-CHANEL/

SUPERB DIVINE

http://www.style.com/fashionshows/review/F2009RTW-AMCQUEEN

MARTIN GRANT FALL 2009 PARIS

MARTIN GRANT --Here's something refreshing ..clothes to wear --chic--elegant--timeless--the collection may not set the world on fire but when the customer might be looking for investment clothes or just clothes that don't scream any particular season .....then MARTIN GRANT is the man of the hour......i am thinking there is some sort of correlation to the Ralph Rucci customer

VALENTINO FALL 2009 PARIS

if the beauty is in the details then this collection fell short of the expectation of that this duo would deliver...While the clothes were pretty enough these NEW designers have to learn how to fit the clothes to the models ..the dresses looked too big and might have benefitted from a few inches removed from the length ...considering that these 2 were doing accessories , I would have to ask ..What happened to the accessories ????..some fabulous jewelry --fabulous shoes ---anything except a clutch bag, might have brought out the drama of the collection ...so in essence ----TRY TRY AGAIN

TRES CHIC

http://www.style.com/fashionshows/complete/slideshow/F2009RTW-VALLI/

GIAMBATTISTA VALLI PARIS FALL 2009

GIMABATTISTA VALLI--There is something about his collections that keep me coming back to see what he is doing and now I can see that the curiousity is well founded ....while I am not sure I agree with the LENGTH of the collection i most certainly agree with the chic of the collection ...beautifully shown ...beautifully rendered ..just enough luxe ---was a pleasure to watch

YSL-- VICTOR&ROLF--STELLA McCARTNEY

YSL--If this is what pulling back means then by all means let it all out ..the collection was autere--slick and yet I kept waiting for something to happen ...which never did ---while it had the elements of classic YSL the collection never got off the ground for me

VICTOR &ROLF--Well we know these boys can drive home the THEME of their collections but while I found the Statuary to be a great reference I found the make up distracting and I was not sure that the static quality of a statue, frozen at that moment in time , made for a collection of wearable inviting clothes .....

STELLA McCARTNEY ..while not a fan of hers, I found the collection to be quite welcoming ---the tailoring ..the dresses...this looked grown up to me and I am sure for many of the retailers

OOH LA LA LACROIX !!!

http://www.style.com/fashionshows/complete/slideshow/F2009RTW-CLACROIX/

CHRISTIAN LACROIX PARIS 2009 FALL

LACROIX---Someone wise once told me that in order to be a premiere designer one had to know all the rules before one could play around and break the rules ...and so Monsieur Lacroix has indeed shown us that he is a master of the rules and doesn't need all the bells and whistles to deliver a blockbuster collection aimed at women who want beautiful clothes ...the signatures are there--the shapes --the tailoring --JOLIE FEMME !!

GIVENCHY ANDREW GN PARIS FALL 2009

GIVENCHY-Ricardo Tisci is a long way from Monsieur Hubert but this season he has exhibited a more matured collection that has its own brand of chic......the chic has been missing from previous seasons..this season heavy on the plumage and draping but included are some blockbuster suits and dresses

ANDREW GN --usually known for over the top embroideries and embellishment gave us a more restrained GN but still heavily ornamented but this eason with more tone on tone and contrasst materials and yet some of the most spectacular pieces had little to no embellishment at all

UNGARO AKRIS RYKIEL PARIS 2009 FALL

UNGARO -Esteban Cortazar dug into the archives and found the DNA of Ungaro and now he must temper his collection to envelop the essence of Ungaro
AKRIS--once known as an old lady collection and now clean- simple and slick design is the order of the day --so forget the inspirations and don't fix what's not broken
SONIA RYKIEL--the perfect case of not fixing what's not broken ---she manages to breathe the new into the tried and true

LOEWE FALL 2009

http://www.style.com/fashionshows/complete/slideshow/F2009RTW-LOEWE/

LOEWE PARIS FALL 2009

LOEWE>>>>It might seem odd timing to relaunch a venerable name know for its leather goods but when you thiink about it ..maybe not so odd.....The company has sort of dusted itself off and offered a collection of rather tasty looking ready to wear including leathers...one might think that LOEWE might be what Gucci was when there were Guccis still involved ----what happened to that customer...my guess is that she is still around and so is her daughter and maybe her daughter's daughter..so maybe ...just maybe when that affluent customer is looking for discreet luxury , she might just find her way to LOEWE
PS..the clothes looked great --the bags looked great ---time to get on those shoes

JP GAULTIER PARIS 2009 FALL

The bad boy of Paris is all grown up ---still mischevious but the tricks have matured ...The customer is all grown up and now is offered up JPG's sense of humor as well as intrigue--B/D..S/M worked into a disciplined chic fishnet theme where "X" marks the spot and fishnet might be seen on a trench coat-----it's fun to be able to buy clothes that still have a customer and that are not as serious as a heart attack and require no drawn out references to some esoterica

PARIS GAULTIER

http://www.style.com/fashionshows/complete/slideshow/F2009RTW-JPGAULTI/

PARIS 2009 FALL

I am not sure how one addresses the ultimate chic collection, but I must scream Bravo and more to Alber Elbaz for a LANVIN for such perfection ..this is retro yet modern ----simple yet extravagant--Paris yet New York City-and chic to the nth degree.........................DIOR certainly comes in a close second , just not in the same vein----this was color and pattern --in a collection with homage to Poiret and orientalia----a collection that shows off the ateliers of Dior as well as the extraordinary talents of John Galliano

MERCI PARIS !!!!
http://www.style.com/fashionshows/complete/slideshow/F2009RTW-LANVIN/

OOH LA LA DIOR BABY
http://www.style.com/fashionshows/complete/slideshow/F2009RTW-CDIOR/

OLIVIER THEYSKINS NINA RICCI

http://www.style.com/fashionshows/complete/slideshow/F2009RTW-NRICCI/

PART 2--- PARIS WHENIT SIZZLES

AZZARO..Aside from one awkward jumpsuit , this was an extremely wearable -chic-and tastelly simple collection made up of what i call "L A day clothes" --cocktail dress and gowns all of which never pass the line to showy
BRUNO PIETERS... well about 1/2 way thru I realized this is getting verrrrrrrry boring ---over and over the rigid hard edged clothes done up in a less that exuberant palette of brown grey and black ....but one must give credit that he sticks to his story and thats it ---there is no deviation

PARIS ---WHEN IT SIZZLES

So after what I would call a soft start , PARIS has quickly picked up the pace ........... I think I need to do this in no prticular order than I must write about OLIVIER THYESKENS /NINA RICCI......In no uncertain terms would I call this show a triumph of taste ....the collection which featured reed slim, sexy ,Mugler-esque clothes that demand and command attention on every level --my only question is what was he thinking with those uber space platform shoes ............if this is to be his last collection for NINA RICCI then it would be an unequivocal swan song that will keep Mr. Theyskens in good stead for many years to come ......BALMAIN..It all boils down to who --where --why--------oodles of sparkle......70's references(Kamali) , but I really wonder what would have happened if these clothes were not crotch grazing .............BALENCIAGA ...NICOLAS GHESQUIERE....With an extreme amount of draping and with extraordinary prowess....this was a very particular for a very particular lady with narrow hips and waist not to mention an extremely large wallet----best was a simple draped black dress worn by Chanel Iman to great advantage

PARIS --LE PREMIER JOUR

Well it is off to a slow start in terms of what might emerge as a trend but the first day also brings one of the future stars of fashion
GARETH PUGH-slick.. grown up ...edgy of course ..keep your eyes on him I believe his collections will mature to full blow greatness within the next few years
KRIS VAN AASCHE --well this is Yoji meets Rei meets Jean Paul Gaultier
ANN VALERIE HASH -- the collection intrigues me due to the small couture collection that she shows during that time---she must have a following for the tailored--wearable--and tastefully chic outfits that she turns out

SUMMATION

So the fashion pundits have spoken and universally praised JIL SANDER--PUCCI--BOTTEGA VENETA--GUCCI ---VERSACE--MARNI--PRADA--CAVALLI---and my question is simple.....so what will you sell to make money ?????Certainly there is no money to be made selling onesies of editorial clothes ,no disco outfits from the 70's and not 80's as supposedly referenced...........one cannot tell me that the matrons who make up the customer base of Neimans--Saks--Bergdorfs and the like will be wearing cupful nude dresses from BOTTEGA or car wash leather dresses from PRADA and surely not studded thigh high skirts from CAVALLI---so after your 20 best customers have bought the editorial stuff what are you going to do to sustain the "couture" level customer for the balance of the season ????

SEE FOR YOURSELF

http://www.style.com/fashionshows/complete/slideshow/F2009RTW-DGABBANA/

DOLCE & GABBANA OVER THE TOP

MILAN LAST BUT NOT LEAST

DOLCE & GABBANA..It is rare for me to to find great merit in this collection but this time around I must say "BRAVA"....this was just a good time romp of what makes fashion an adventure and what makes designers world class designers....the clothes and there were tons of them ...showed off the tailoring abilities as well as their famous senses of humor, glamor and not for the feint of heart ---one needs to see the slides of this runway to the Nth degree show .........

THE LAST OF MILAN

WELL THE END HAS COME....FENDI..It is the laboratory of fashion at work ....POLLINI...young ..spirited dresses and jackets with a non threatening refreshing outlook .....MAX MARA...slick ..Blackless..wearable..chic..discreet luxury ..D SQUARED....everything you will ever need if you are 20 ..fabulous --rich ..uber hip..so I am not sure what relevancy this all has with the fashion flock and then there is ..VERSACE with what was described as "Day" which i construe to see as evening and an almost entirely sleeveless collection of "day" and evening

MILAN WORTH MENTIONING

Maurizio Pecoraro---One would be remiss not to mention this particular collection which hits the right notes without alot of excess baggage
ETRO--CAVALLI are what you expect them to be ---ETRO full of prints and lush color and CAVALLI full of Hollywood flash and sex appeal

MORE MILAN

MORE MILAN --There seems to be a fascination with "origami like folds" for dresses which seems to be as overdone as draping was in the New York collections---as always ,having the ability to do it does not make the item more fashionable or attractive -----actually quite the opposite as evidenced by the team AQUILANO-RIMONDI--just being an architect doesnt make you a great architect !!!!FERRAGAMO -needs to send a memo to their designer reminding her that the company is know for shoes and handbags which were in short supply as were clothes intended for a FERRAGAMO lady

MORE MILAN

MORE MILAN --There seems to be a fascination with "origami like folds" for dresses which seems to be as overdone as draping was in the New York collections---as always ,having the ability to do it does not make the item more fashionable or attractive -----actually quite the opposite as evidenced by the team AQUILANO-RIMONDI--just being an architect doesnt make you a great architect !!!!FERRAGAMO -needs to send a memo to their designer reminding her that the company is know for shoes and handbags which were in short supply as were clothes intended for a FERRAGAMO lady

MARNI 2009 FALL

SOMEONE EXPLAIN THIS TO ME
http://www.style.com/fashionshows/complete/slideshow/F2009RTW-MARNI/

PRADA 2009 FALL

http://www.style.com/fashionshows/complete/slideshow/F2009RTW-PRADA/

MILAN PRADA MARNI

I suppose, that in some far off land where the arcane and the esoteric are the norms , then I would be able to decipher the hieroglyphics of PRADA and MARNI...I am not able to understand why these collections will be praised/lauded ...PRADA made reference to the 40's and either gladiators or flappers in some very weighty looking concoctions with some mighty heavy shoes and bags while I cannot even begin to try to understand MARNI except for its accessories

THANK GOD THEY MAKE ACCESSORIES

The accessories of MARNI and PRADA are certainly more understandable than the collection

WHAT A GOOD TIME!!!

http://www.style.com/fashionshows/complete/slideshow/F2009RTW-BLUMARNE/

MILAN DAY 3

WELL --after a great day comes a day of surprises where we certainly didn't see what was expected
--GUCCI delivered some sort of collection aimed at the monied Forever 21 /H&M crowd--
-BOTTEGA VENETA delivered a supposedly slick clean collection which looked awkward and dull--
-PUCCI needs a new designer already as Peter Dundas' first outing might as well have been anyones collection as it bore no realtion to the house's past ....but
BLUMARINE put a smile on your face and delivered a fun --all out --feel good collection that showed clothes can have a purpose and that the purpose will be apparent to the buyer

Milan etc;

FERRE--WELL LETS SAY THAT THESE BOYS HAVE AN EYE FOR THE TEXTURAL AND THEN THERE'S THE HEAVY HANDED ---BADLY SHOD ---AND LOST FROM THE WAIST DOWN COLLECTION WHICH BARES LITTLE OR NO RELATION TO WHAT ONE MAN SPENT A LIFE BUILDING
JIL SANDER--slick --architectural---hard edge ---BRAVO !!!-JIL moves gracefully forward
D&G--sometimes a collection just screams too loudly --"look at me!"
ALBERTA FERRETTI -black be damned --roll out that color ---something for everyone
BURBERRY PRORSUM-keep making that plaid--the balance is highly questionable