If there is a word that might describe the entire it could
be ... Fluid! Since every collection of his is approached as a singular moment,
rather than an evolution, this collection spoke to me. Without equivocation, it
can be said I am rarely if ever a fan of arts and crafts looking clothes as
they always look exactly like the descriptors BUT within this collection, I find
those knits quite palatable if not intriguing.
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The loose liquid pant is prevalent, the tailoring is there
but in a relaxed way and not in some Vetements nightmare way, the camouflage mixed
with 19th century “art” prints and then the surprise of the graphic
black and white. To me this is fashion; it is designed, conceived, rendered and
doesn’t matter what the inspirations as the clothes are meant to speak for
themselves and can be appreciated for what they are without all the blah blah .
There are subtleties in coloration and pattern and there are stark contrasts
like the stiffness of the trapunto stitching against the soft pant but never
ever can you say a Dries collections is
trendy. By the way. Those 2 tunics that look like oil cloth … well not so much!
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Wait!! Do not think that trends are absent from the collection
as they are addressed but in the most
subtle way, for example you might see a bomber but what really attracted you is
not the shape but the patterning or patterns or color mix. Dries stands alone
as the clothes reflect the designer and not the zeitgeist of fashion and for
that alone he should be applauded…. LOUDLY.
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