Friday, January 24, 2014

Haute Couture Spring 2014.. Stephane Rolland .. Yanina




There is a difference between what one can term modern and what one might deem as futuristic. Prevailing ideas seem to indicate that Cardin or Courreges might be classified as futuristic for the their times and that Dior (Raf) or Balenciaga( Wang) should be given the descriptor of modern.



I prefer to think that St├ęphane Rolland is a combination of both modern and futuristic. Both seem to suit him far better than the aforementioned two who talk too much and design too little. Monsieur Rolland designs clothes that demand attention and rightfully so. His clothes are not for wall flowers and yet there is a very old school kind of feeling to these couture creations. He is apparently a master of consrtuction and has never met a flange,a ruffle or a fabrication that he couldn’t train to his liking. He is another designer who designs rather than mumbles inspirations and arcane intellect yet the clothes are unmistakably  and unabashedly his .. now, isn't that special in today's day and age?



As for Ms. Yanina she is a throwback  to the old days of couture as well as those of Mother Russia. I have watched her collection for a couple of years and as I can now  say they are improving  yet they seem  to sort of be idling.  Firstly the head gear has got to go; time has passed and there is no reason to continue that sort of thing as no one dresses  like that unless you are Sheikah Mozah and she is not shopping  here! 



The petal dresses have become a signature of hers but they are growing increasingly tiring as color cannot disguise repetition. Her discovery of embroidery on tulle has now consumed her  which in most cases is not what it could be. Then there is the what I  refer as the Adam and Eve dress or the Swan Lake dress ... use your imagination ...  and those dresses that seem to have something  growing out of their  bodices. There needs to be some editing  or design refinements as they seem  to start out great and finish not so great. The water color prints are effective and perhaps should have been further explored. I am pleased to see that she gave up those horrendous platform shoes as the pumps do lend a much more sophisticated vibe to the collection.