Saturday, January 24, 2015

Dior Homme by Kris Van Assche .. Fall 2015

In a rare moment of total abandon, it behooves me to mention the absolutely GRAND spectacle was produced for this show! The setting was nothing if not jaw droppingly fabulous when it came to everything visual including and most of all ... scale! Ya gotta love Bernard A for financing the likes of this  ... he knows how to pull out the stops…

Okay, that’s out of the way so let’s move on to the reason for what can only be termed a spectacle and that is the Dior Homme fall 2015 presentation designed by Kris Van Assche .., not Raffy .. Thank god! In all honesty it would take nothing short of a once in a lifetime collection to live up to these surroundings but alas this was not one of them. Don’t get me wrong, the clothes were quite good just not great and unfortunately not exactly eye popping. Make no mistake than Van Assche knows exactly what he is doing as the collection has evolved with him at the helm which is much more than I can say for his counterpart RifRaf. Van Assche has vision!

The collection leans very heavily on the tailored aspect with 101 ways to wear a tux and some great possibilities for outwear and clothing. Without question I am partial to the giant prince des galles plaid, the cardigan or lapel-less pieces and the easy athletic inspired pants. Well, let me clarify, not so much the leather pull on pant as it just doesn’t quite cut it. Even the denim looks good despite its stratospheric price tag. What looked newest, even if it isn’t, are the calf length coats, one elongated suit jacket and the easing of the silhouette in general. We seem to have come full circle and are returning to the pre-Thom Browne proportions of menswear and none too soon unless of course you are Gucci who is embracing it, if not diving into it head first as if it was something new!

Before this is over. Kudos to Monsieur for having a sense of humor and starting the show where it usually ends!! Bien fait!! And merci for OPTIONS!

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