The funny thing is that Stefano Pilati was the topic of
conversation this past week and my biggest observation is that he looks or
seems so comfortable at Ermenegildo Zegna. This is meant in the most
complimentary of ways as the collections have never looked better and never
before exuded such a modern yet classic aura. The collections are filled with
nuance rather than the latest trend and that alone sets him and the brand
apart.
For fall there is shine! There is tonality! There are
clothes that are ageless and modern! This is a riff on classic Italian
tailoring without distorting or pulverizing the DNA of the brand. Think about
that if you will!! The tonal velvets were chic as hell when it would be so easy
for them to have been tacky as hell, the banded neck or cardigan blazers might
have looked retro 80’s but they look fresh and very 21st century and that shine
or maybe luster is more accurate might have gone off the charts to tacky but it
remains a subtle touch.
In essence, Pilati shows the fashion world that there is a
way to update or modernize or at lack of a better word... “Fashionize” a brand
without turning it into a mockery and for that alone he deserves the greatest
of praise. If there is a gripe about the presentation, one might just question
the fanny packs and the front worn back packs but such is the wont of most
designers to inject these stylistic flourishes when doing a show. That being
said, what remains are clothes …. Suitings and sportswear that befit the
heritage of the brand and show off the skills of the designer.
PS... The overall silhouette has certainly loosened up...
yes there are some slimmer... not skinny... Looking suits but overall the look is
looser and more relaxed... not sloppy... and much more wearer friendly and less
restrictive
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