Saturday, January 17, 2015

Jil Sander .. Costume National fall 2015 men's

This may seem like an odd pairing for a review but you will soon find out why they have been placed together here.

JS w/ wasp waist!

Jil Sander as seen by Rodolfo Paglialunga is theoretically JIL for the 21st century. Here’s the rub with that and that is the collection has lost its identity and its edge. Yes, still minimal and yes still spare but no longer as sharp and as slick, in fact it is a bit too relaxed and looking like there is a lot of Prada influence. Needless to say this is not a good thing! Whether or not you loved JIL at its height, there was always this amazing minimalist view which was rendered in the most luxurious of fabrics and extremely particular in its appeal. It is understood that collections must evolve and morph in order to survive but we constantly go back to the same things ... it is only the skilled designer who can accomplish this without eradicating what was to create what is!!

Now ... we get to Costume National by Ennio Capasa who seems to have picked up where Jil might have left off. Are you seeing the why now??  In my mind Capasa has retained his DNA but in doing what he does, he is filling the gap of the past JIL with what might have been the new JIL. Costume National is a slightly trendier vison but surely has the edge and sharpness that Jil is lacking but once had. The clothes are greatly appealing to those us who might need a bit of flash and yet there are surely pieces that would satisfy the evolving minimalist. My eyes see a touch of retro Mugler without being as extreme and perhaps other referential touches but the clothes retain an identity and a modernity that is inherent to the brand. Don’t get me wrong here, Costume National is not for everyone but the appeal here is based on many different esthetics which make the collection so much more interesting than the new JIL.

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