Hard to be believe that 30 years ago I sat on the bleachers in her new showroom at 550 7th Avenue and actually witnessed a piece of fashion history. It was her debut solo collection and yes it was a revelation for almost everyone who was there including me. This collection is a celebration of her 3 decade long body of work and it is testament to the fact that when Donna does Donna, she shines brightly.
For some odd reason, so many believe that Ms. Karan is most memorable for her dresses but in fact she is at her peak when she tailors and she had a tailoring festival within this collection. Make no mistake; this was a collection starring her jackets and coats. Yes she restrained herself and showed the best of the best even when it came to dresses. The overly draped pieces were absent and the sexy devorees and georgettes were front and center and yes, she even reminded us that jackets can be sexy evening wear as well.
I can’t say that this was a greatest hits collection as nothing looked as if it has been retread for the occasion. It was as polished, chic, urbane and uncluttered as she can be where she allows the clothes to truly take center stage. In essence … no tricks, no bells, no whistles just the clothes and Robert Lee Morris jewelry and presto... Fabulous. If there is regret, it would be that the sarong skirt did not appear in any manifestation as I do believe that would have iced the cake. Also it might be noted that almost every skirt was sheer and one can only assume that this was not the case once in the showroom.
Screw trends, let’s talk about clothes that resonate with a customer and can be worn without a road map to get into them or with a battery pack or pages of inspiration needed to explain away the ugliness of a collection! When Donna does Donna there aren’t many who can hold a candle to her and boy oh boy she did it this season!
PS.. I am just not sure if the little hats were a nod to Armani or just for kicks