Memo to Raf... Where on earth did you get the notion that
women who can afford these clothes want to look like rump roasts in quilted
dresses or that instead of using drapes Gone With the Wind style opted for granny’s
old satin quilted coverlet? Maybe I need to ask if you have ever spoken to or
listened to a woman while she was buying clothes. Didn’t you get the memo about
platform shoes? It obviously keeps getting lost!!
Let’s get to it now... Fall 2014 by Raf Simons for Christian
Dior is one more misstep in his checkered tenure at the revered house. At the
onset, my mind was racing with the fact that Simons had retreated to the
tailored aspect of house by deeply delving into its famed jackets and departing
from the floating panels and even decided to add wearable dresses. Harsh
insets, transparencies and techno fabrics that served as some selfish
egotistical moment to force his imprimatur on the house were suddenly gone.
WRONG! He just decided to decimate others parts of the legacy of Dior. A
sleeveless reefer or elongated blazer or petal ½ sleeved blazer is cool but
this was over kill, the colors were welcomed and then suddenly you were looking
at a collection that was both Spring and Fall.
The inset lacing effect looks as cheap as free lunch or
worse yet like some design school project and then there was the matter of
those oddly places beaded flowers appliques to supposedly complement the
sneaker lacing. Do ya think it might have worked better if instead of contrast
lacing you used a monotone or that maybe the laces themselves resembled other
than if they were torn from a pair if
Reeboks?
Moving right along there were all those quilted dresses
which happen to have been quite lovely if you were looking for a fashionable
way to stay warm this coming winter. I am sure there will be oodles of arcane
high minded blah blah blah to supposedly justify these choices but … deaf ears here!!!
continuing on this path now it the matter of the of the layered looking dresses
which for a moment looked as if they might be quite fabulous but then again,
Mr. Simons seems to know how to turn
these ideas against himself via various means of destruction.
Bottom line is simple, from the outside looking in these are
not clothes that befit the legacy or reputation of Dior. Rumor hath it that the
clothes are retailing... I don’t believe it for a second as all that “news” can
be manipulated by the mother ship. Passing by the store on 57th
street has become a major source of sadness as there is neither glamor nor
mystique about these clothes. They look as sad as Stella Tennant standing
hunched and pigeon toed with dirty hair dressed in some ungodly creation!
Remember aspiration?? It has turned into
“WHO wants to look like that!”
PS about those postage stamp style embroideries slapped onto
shells and those supposedly fabulous and glam “gowns” well .. nighties … think
again..Raf’s riff on Dior needs a whole lotta work!!
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