Emilio Pucci: Peter Dundas remains on top of his game here but his “inspirations” might be wearing a bit thin. We are returning to Hippie Heaven and a lot of Talitha Getty and a ton of piano shawl embroideries complete with fringe and what was once known as granny dresses but who’s keeping track and peasant blouses. Then there are tie dyes, again, crocheted vests and of course we have the latest incarnation of the famous Pucci prints that put the house on the map. The pants suits sure do remind one of those Carnaby Street days but still look fresh and sharp as do a couple of the dresses that are not embellished. Very soon Mr. Dundas will need to find a different decade to reference and one can’t help but notice the that the exquisite beaded pieces that appeared in Fall are nowhere to be seen for Spring. Quel Dommage!
Bottega Veneta: Tomas Maier is odd man out in this designer grouping as he is not into over the top bells and whistles, this particular season he seems to be focusing on clothes that his ladies might actually wear and not store away for an occasion. What came to mind was that just as Bunny Mellon had Givenchy and Balenciaga make her gardening togs, Tomas Maier might be the choice for many women who need almost couture like threads to run the errands and pick up the kids from school. The clothes are no nonsense with of course his artisanal touch as seen in the raw cut edges of the denims and the ginghams which to me seems a bit too uniform like or maybe industrial looking. In essence he offered up highly understandable clothes that have a bit of an edge to them. The clothes actually look comfortable and offer a woman the chance to be dressed in the highest of fashion without looking done up.
Roberto Cavalli: what can one say here? What no said ever was that these clothes are for the faint of heart or that they are minimal in any way. In his usual seasonal offering the clothes are highly embroidered and embellished and if that was wasn’t enough, he took a detour to the eye popping prints that even the blind could see. The deal is that this was pure unadulterated Cavalli and maybe even a slightly change MO as animal prints took a back seat to the rest of all the bells and whistles. These are the clothes of those who are sexy kittens and for those who want to show off what they have... whether they should or shouldn’t. In the end, there is something to be said for consistency and he is most certainly consistent in his never ending selection of scream out loud clothes. PS... If you are looking for widows weeds... Walk on by!