Well it took long enough but finally someone has figured out how to mine the archive at the house of Versace. The biggest question in my mind is how long will this good fortune last? Anthony Vaccarello has absorbed the DNA of its eponymous founder and even has injected some of Donatellamommamia esthetic into the mix.
The particular focus of this seasons offering was the Fall/Winter collection of 1992 designed by Gianni which was heavily influenced by leather and bondage. Vaccarello certainly tapped into it and certainly put it to good use. If this is not a one hit wonder of a collection then Ms. Versace would be foolish not to allow this young man to take the design helm at the brand. This could possibly be what the brand needs as surely Donatellamommamia is not up to the task as she has shown us season and after season.
Signorina V has tried to reference her late brother but never as successfully as this young man has done. The harnesses, the hardware, the leather and the raw sex appeal were all in attendance and done so in a very commanding, assured and deft way. Gianni was about louche, Donatellamommamia is about sluts and Vaccarello has recaptured Gianni and refined Signora V to fit into the scheme of things.
Please do not misconstrue and think that this is the most fabulous collection to ever hit a runway but this IS a collection that befits the brand and one that the Signora has never been able to accomplish n matter how hard she tried. The confining palette, the Greek key, the medusa, the tailoring; it is all there and right up front for all to see. Yes, there were some not so great pieces and yes even one might say clunkers but they are outweighed by the successes.
Bottom line here is simply that this is more than just like and not quite love but Vaccarello’s Versus holds your attention for good reason and surely gives you great pause as to what he MIGHT be able to do in the future!