Saturday, September 22, 2012

Pucci Spring 2013 Milan Collections



Okay here’s the deal, I see this as Bruce Lee meets Ricardo Tisci meets Frederick’s of Hollywood.  Sexy? … yes!  Cheesy? … Yes!  Too blatant? … Yes!  DNA of the house? … Not so much.

So, I get it totally; Spring has never been an easy season for any design house as it is sort of a non-season and based on about 3 days in May when one can actually wear the clothes but MAMA MIA, what is going on in Milan?  Apparently, so many designers have gotten lost on the path to Spring and Mr. Dundas is no exception albeit he does off a few and only a few bright spots.

Peter Dundas re invented the brand with this jet set sexy young edge and yet  this time around we stepped over that edge to almost hookerish rather than the original parameters.  The print selection has completely veered off course and the transparency of the clothes has certainly taken the driver’s seat of this runaway bus.  Surely there are other alternatives to being sexy other than a single layer of georgette or almost gonad exposing lengths.

High point and they really were high points were the transparent cropped and embroidered trench which was exquisite in every way, an all-white column shown towards the end in the seemingly evening segment and then there was the oversized and elongated varsity jacket which sure fit the bill as jet set young and sexy.  The similarity to Tisci’s Givenchy of seasons gone by is surely not an asset nor is the choice of the typical Far East tiger embellishments.  Granted that almost any animal used would have echoed Tisci due to the enormous amount of media coverage and his use in more than one collection but Mr. Dundas is surely more capable than this. 


I am so perplexed as to why a designer would venture towards familiar ground of someone else’s rather than dig back into its own brand DNA for inspiration.  If anything, Pucci was always a beauty of a collection for Spring/Summer with the color palettes and patterning.