I think I can safely say that Pierre is rolling over in his
grave. Balmain has been totally reimagined
without any regard to its roots or DNA, but that’s not necessarily the worst
thing in the world. The brand has been
morphed into the rock n roll go to resource for those who must have the “it” jacket
to end all jackets and it all comes at quite a price.
Olivier Rousteing has taken the brand into its next
incarnation from its most recent reinvention at the hands of Christophe
Decarnin. Mr. Rousteing has whipped this
collection into a frenzy of sights and ideas and in the process brought a
polish and completeness to the collection.
I always viewed the Decarnin collections as groups of jackets, all of
which were heavily embellished and now there appears to be a thread which links
it all together and still focuses on the jacket yet yields a full collection.
It has the markings of so many who came before him like
Thierry Mugler, Gianni Versace, Oscar de la Renta, Franco Moschino and even
Pucci under the hand of Peter Dundas. As
a whole, this collection is way way over the top and way way editorial driven
but the unmistakable 80’s take and all the references require a much more
serious review than the past collections.
The extreme shoulders, the broderie anglaise ( Google it), the patterns,
the colors and the overall silhouettes scream look at me and will no doubt
grace the pages of every fashion magazine as well as many fashion blogs which
will use words such as “fierce” or “fabulous” or “divine.” It is unfortunate that few if any of these
outlets or reviews will give a reason for the reaction. I am sure there is a heap of blah blah blah
that will accompany the collection but that really doesn’t matter as the
clothes must speak for themselves … unless of course you are Miuccia or Marc
who serve Kool-Aid at their shows.
Bottom lines... have a look and really think about all this
as there is more than the costumes that meet the eye. There is a great level of thought and
technical skills that go into a collection like this and one can only imagine
what will happen when it is channeled into a less ribald and less referenced
grouping.
http://www.examiner.com/slideshow/international-style-paris-fashion-week-balmain-spring-2013
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