Saturday, September 29, 2012

Haider Ackermann Spring 2013 Paris Collections

I always lived with the feeling that if you never expect then you are never disappointed and yet I was expecting more than what I saw at Haider Ackerman. That is not to say that the collection was not beautiful, but it does say that the absence of color has created some sort of pall over the collection. I had always, and obviously wrongly, assumed that color was part of Mr. Ackermann’s stock in trade but I guess not … he traded color for patterns this season and graphic patterns at that.

The DNA of the brand was all present and accounted for ... the signature wrapping and folding and accentuated waists but I somehow left wanting to see what some of this would have looked like if Mr. Ackermann applied his acumen when it comes to color. This season, one of the elements or several of the elements which have become emblematic for his collections have seeped into the rend category for this season and those namely being the Japonisme elements that have always been in a Haider Ackermann collection, no matter the season.
I am a huge fan as well as cheerleader for black and white and I certainly do understand the beauty of their combinations so, in that respect, I was very visually delighted. The clothes have not lost that slightly louche quality which makes them as appealing as they rarely look contrived or “outfitty.” One of the other things I do love about the collection is that despite the intricacies of each exit, there is a certain comme il faut which I suppose lends to that louche quality. Lastly, no matter how many layers and no matter the combinations, the clothes fail to ever show a heavy hand, the lightness is palpable.

Bottom line, did I love the collection? … No, Did I hate the collection? … No, but I was expecting more than what I saw and that has disappointed me more than anything but it still cannot take away from the quality and beauty of the collection.

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