I always lived with the feeling that if you never expect then
you are never disappointed and yet I was expecting more than what I saw
at
Haider Ackerman.
That is not to say that the collection was not beautiful, but it does
say that the absence of color has created some sort of pall over the
collection. I had always, and obviously wrongly, assumed that color was
part of Mr. Ackermann’s stock in trade but I guess not … he traded color
for patterns this season and graphic patterns at that.
The DNA of the brand was all present and accounted for ... the
signature wrapping and folding and accentuated waists but I somehow left
wanting to see what some of this would have looked like if Mr. Ackermann
applied his acumen when it comes to color. This season, one of the
elements or several of the elements which have become emblematic for his
collections have seeped into the rend category for this season and
those namely being the Japonisme elements that have always been in a
Haider Ackermann collection, no matter the season.
I am a huge fan as well as cheerleader for black and white and I
certainly do understand the beauty of their combinations so, in that
respect, I was very visually delighted. The clothes have not lost that
slightly louche quality which makes them as appealing as they rarely
look contrived or “outfitty.” One of the other things I do love about
the collection is that despite the intricacies of each exit, there is a
certain comme il faut which I suppose lends to that louche quality.
Lastly, no matter how many layers and no matter the combinations, the
clothes fail to ever show a heavy hand, the lightness is palpable.
Bottom line, did I love the collection? … No, Did I hate the
collection? … No, but I was expecting more than what I saw and that has
disappointed me more than anything but it still cannot take away from
the quality and beauty of the collection.
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