Tuesday, February 12, 2013

Thom Browne New York Collections fall 2013

It would be ludicrous to not think that Thom Browne may be in fact  be… schizophrenic.  The difference between pre fall and full on fall 2013 is rather jarring and disppaointing… that’s putting it mildly.  The schism between the 2 is that of day and night, white and black and perhaps even Sybil with her 22 personalities.  Was pre fall the teaser? Was pre-fall designed by someone other than the namesake (ty  to KG)?  Are we being toyed with or being made fools of?

It is possible that Mr. Browne has talents but is he more interested in shocking than selling and more interested in attention of any kind and anyway he can find it?  There is no question as to his tailoring prowess which he demonstrates season after season. This season he proves that his ateliers are equivalent to those of the Haute Couture when it comes to bringing life to the phantasmagorical!

 What is the major question is what is the purpose and intent on these costume epics?  There is nothing in the presentation that resembles wearable clothes.  There is nothing in the collection that bears a resemblance to real life.  It has been suggested to me that the clothes look like Helena Bonham Carter’s off stage wardrobe (ty to MJP) and then there was that the collection appeared to be a riff on the Queen of Hearts and playing card army (TY to BD..I think) and I think it is all very Through the Looking Glass literally and figuratively and no.  I really do not give a rat’s ass about the inspiration or back story!

As far as I am concerned, he took his moment of glory, dressing Mrs. Obama and delivering a first class pre fall collection and all the publicity surrounding those events and said FOOLED YA! Now go screw yourself, I’ll do what I please not what I should do.   This collection seems to be more a reflection of a petulant child rather than a world class designer or is just hubris?  Yes Peter, as in Pan, there comes a time when you need to grow up!  A collection like this makes John Galliano’s confections for Dior look like catalog pieces for Talbotts!

Maybe this is all just the build up for the Thom Browne retrospective that he is planning in his mind and has nothing whatsoever to do with the business of fashion!

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