This year, this season, Massimiliano Giornetti has taken
Salvatore Ferragamo in a new direction.
This simply means that the urbane and slick chic of last fall’s
triumphantly graphic collection is this year’s edgier more minimalist offering
without a pattern in sight.
The question that I have is why the drastic turn of
events? Even though this year is totally
modern and full of technologically engineered fabrications and shows off the
immaculate rendering of the clothes, I remain in the camp of last year’s
esthetic. These clothes are
geometric and structured without looking
rigid, again an art form and talent that
most designers do not possess, and show remarkable restraint in that they are
barely accessorized so that the focus is on the apparel and not the
accessories. Speaking of accessories, I
found the footwear to be distracting and not necessarily compatible to the
clothes. I wonder if the clothes would
have benefitted from a more traditional boot and shoe.
Oddly, when reviewing the men’s collection, I was upset that
the outerwear never came off the model and we never got to see the
underpinnings and the same has happened here.
I will admit that here, with
women’s, the coats and outerwear were not so tightly closed up so you were able
to see more but then again, with not a lot of contrast going on, it was
difficult at best to see.
The take away here is simple …. Did I like the
collection? …. Yes … Did I love the
collection? … No…. was I disappointed? … Yes … was I expecting more? … Yes!
I have not lost faith in the designer or the brand; I remain hopeful and
fully understand the constraints and pressures of this business to constantly
devise the newest and the latest, so I will wait it out and come back for more
next season.
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