Saturday, February 9, 2013

Prabal gurung New York Collections fall 2013

I understand the onerous pressure to produce 5 collections a year and also oversee or design whatever licenses and collaborations you might have but there comes a time when a designer, a really good one at that, knows when he or she has over designed a collection.  Prabal Gurung, the one that made me an early fan and “todays” version are 2 different designers.

The key here is that almost every single piece is all tricked out in one way or another.  The “polio” like leg harnesses, the shoes, the leather torso harnesses, the draping and splicing and more and more and more is just so not appealing.  The modus operandi of any show is to idealize what the creation would look like on the perfect body but, alas, what happens when these idealizations are not attractive; where’s the dream? Where’s the “I want to look like that!”

The clothes lack a grace and finish that would be appropriate for a designer who has made such a big name for himself and yet there is still no established signature or look for the brand. I always address the DNA of a designer or brand and for the life of me, I can’t locate it here with this newest collection.
After years and years of clothes and shows, I have come to learn that too much is exactly that .o. too much and while a designer may have great talents , he or she might be blindsided by  their ego, who is whispering in their ear or just plain hubris.

The collection lacks logic, a progression and one might say an audience or a point of view.  I am confident that eventually Mr. Gurung will be able to put his glory/fame factor aside and realize that he is far better than this.

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