Mr. Valli earned his stripes catering to young and not so young party girls who wanted beautiful dresses with glorious details and a little bit of an edge. Last season, he took a bit of turn and moved toward some sportier looks and this season it seems to be solidifying itself in a much stronger way.
The pretty dresses are still here albeit not so decoratively; the dresses are more sedate, less ornamented yet slick and chic, one in particular reminded me of Madame Gres and yes, that’s a good thing. He has not abandoned his beloved animal patterns but he has certainly made his mark this season with his deft hand for outerwear and furs. From mink to grey flannel, it is all here.
The slim cropped at the ankle is pant is at the core of the day looks which he pairs with a fabulous high throated shoe… almost a semi bootie if you will. Yes, finally, the over powering shoe is gone and here is a shoe which does not distract and yet works with almost every single outfit. Mr. Valli has now shown everyone that his world is not just about dresses and that he is equally capable of whatever task is dealt to him.
Outstanding pieces for me were the degrade grey, floral gown, the black/white/lace short cocktail and the long completely draped jersey and on the merit of those 3 alone, he can be proud. As an observer, I am pleased when a designer of great talent exposes his talents in such beautiful form and in such a positive manner.
I anxiously await haute couture and full head on fall.