Some say his customer has grown up and is evolving... I say he is looking for a new customer with this collection. I might go as far to say that he is after the Narciso, Jil, Tomas, Chloe and Celine customer... just as an FYI!
The clothes are precise, razor sharp, minimalist, clinical, and almost sterile which is probably what leads me to the above conclusion. These clothes are the antithesis of what he has built up since his entry into the world of fashion. One can maybe assume that the rumors persisting are true and that the clothes are not selling as well as expected/thought and the quality is not commensurate with the price. If you continue on that premise then these clothes leave little margin for error.
What irks me as well is that one might assume that when a designer drastically alters his vocabulary that he has in fact never really developed a customer and is still in search of what will define them as a go to resource. Maybe I am misguided in my thought process but one must believe that if a designer only made sportswear for let’s say 10 seasons and had an established successful “at retail” business, why would said designer then turn around and make only beaded evening wear?
Simply said you just can’t explain this away. The clothes are good but certainly not memorable or new. What’s even worse is that there is nothing really distinctive about them in the big picture. More and more and more of the “me too” mentality and yet still searching for a look, a customer, a raison d’etre!
I have been a fan of Wu from the start and I believe there is talent there but for some reason that talent is still not being harnessed properly and he is still on unsure footing with his collections. Now would be a good time to step up and get noticed as a creature and an original as we are drowning in a fashion miasma of sameness.