This cannot be approached as a real collection, no matter its true intent. The Spring collection by Thom Browne needs to be spoken about on several levels so here goes…
As far as technical workmanship and abilities, it doesn’t get much better than this. As far as designing, this cannot be considered other than if these are costumes for some sort of theater production and not the theater of fashion! There is no commercial factor even if dissected so that part is out of the question.
There is a disturbing quality about the presentation which keeps gnawing at me and that is the Night Porter and Nazi overtones that Mr. Brown has evoked. Complicating matters even further is the gender bending of wartime Berlin that permeates the collection which all adds up to a disturbing “big picture.”
Theatrically it is brilliant, the imagination is disturbingly perverse, and the inspiration and reasons are inconsequential as really who cares? Let the paid critics intellectualize and try to convince the reader that this collection means anything or really matters ... for me... it’s nothing more than shock value for the sake of shock… MISSION ACCOMPLISHED!