Within a minute of the opening of this show, one almost
immediately knew that change was afoot.
Mr. Ossendrijver, under the watchful eye of Alber Elbaz, delivered a
sterling collection … once you got beyond the obvious attention grabbing ploy of using not just shorts, but short
shorts or maybe one might say … HOT PANTS!
Lanvin Spring 2014 is the perfect example of having to dissect
what you are shown and think of each part of an exit as an individual piece… in
essence, the whole is only equal to the sum of its parts, but each part is an entity
unto itself! ...got that???
The collection offers multiple viewpoints on what will be considered
fashionable and trend worthy for the season whether it be any of the many
jacket silhouettes or pants or shirts and well... even shorts! It is clear that volume is being toyed with from
the single pleat full legged pant to the cinched waisted trenches to the
varying degrees of fit when it comes to tailored jackets. For these eyes, the only silhouette that
looks out of place here is the very abbreviated fitted shapes that mercifully
were not in abundance.
Not only was the designer tossing out “volumetrics,” he was
also tossing out textures from wools to jerseys to eye clips (Google it) to
even a touch here and there of lame or patent.
Personally, the collection was just beautiful in terms of breadth, palette,
shapes and proportion.
Once again, this is a collection that was filled with
swagger and slick, not to mention, once again, N U A N C E … put it all
together you have NUANCE and if you can’t guess the definition, then by all
means look it up!! This is why only a few
designers design and the rest get inspired by others.
Lanvin stands out from the oceans of sameness and forges a
path that one can only hope will be adhered to in coming seasons.
P.S. if you need it spelled out, then have a look at the
invisible closures on the jackets, the cutaway shape of the jackets, the pant
lengths and most of all …the options!
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