In a season where “men are the new women,” Berluti arrives
with a refreshing sigh of relief and a respite from the absurdity that has been
populating the men’s shows for the past few weeks.
This nascent collection dares to show without a pair shorts
in sight, with normal footwear and models that look like men of all ages, with
nary a nipple in sight… imagine the novelty of it! It is not to say that the collection will
bowl you over or astound you in any way at all, but it makes a distinctive mark
this season by being realistically fashionable …. OMG!!! The dreaded “R”
word!!!!
The essence of the collection is that this is fashion that
has been massaged and contains nuance rather than slapping you in the face with
drama or off the hook trend. Yes, the
suits are more abbreviated and the pant a bit slimmer and shorter but the
workmanship is incredible, the styling chic yet trendy and the overall look is
very Lapo Elkann. If you don’t know who
that is … just shut the computer down now and walk away.
Words that come to mind after seeing the collection are
rakish, dandy, dishabille, slim, natty, monochromatic, haberdashery and
stylishly appropriate. Somehow you would
be hard pressed to find 6 more collections that befit those words or overall sentiment.
Here is another interesting concept that shows up in Berluti in that the
collection doesn’t really require explanation, seeing is believing and no blah
blah blah needed! … What a concept! … And wearable, to boot... Oooh, the
dreaded “W” word!
If this reviewer could have a wish list it would include a
bit more color, a bit more than the hinted fashionable more forward
underpinnings, a bit more variety of silhouettes, a dash more of slick and an
overall feeling of perfectly turned out as in a sharper edge to the
clothes. This is much more of a personal
preference and am very sure that most opinions will not be colored by these
observations or detractions.
Please feel free to pipe in on this !!
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